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The Partisan Brings Meat Lovers Together

Warren Rojas/CQ Roll Call

While I was partial to a coil of swine seasoned with salty aged provolone, one companion made short work of the more prominently spiced luganega. That link, which arrived flush with hints of garlic and sage, was deposited in a pool of terrific pesto punctuated by tangy lemon, lush olive oil and earthy ground pine nuts.

A hybrid rotisserie-fried chicken dish was an all-around hit.

The labor intensive bird — “The chicken is brined for 12 hours, rubbed and dried for an hour, before being roasted for 1.5 to 2 hours. It is then broken down and fried,” Anda explained — is well worth the extra effort. Our order was mostly dark meat (legs and thighs), which makes sense given the cooking regiment. The individual pieces featured terrifically tender meat shrouded by crispy, spice-crusted skin.

Plunging it in the house hot sauce, which balances vinegary spice with honey sweetness, made every bite of the already naturally delicious bird that much more enjoyable.

Anyone considering getting into the gourmet burger game would be wise to study The Partisan’s outstanding triple-decker offering.

The ultra-sloppy handheld drips melted cheese and oozes juice, a natural consequence of stacking multiple chorizo-filled patties (roughly five ounces of coarsely ground beef, according to Anda) atop one another and smothering the finished product in tangy braised onions. A chunky style tomato aioli adds some acid to the savory mix, while a thick kaiser roll battles to hold together the magnificent mess after each intoxicating bite.

“We already know what we’re gonna order when we come back,” the newfound friend at the adjoining table announced after polishing off platters of sausage, beef fat fries and double cut rib eye.

Confidence is high we’ll meat again.

Food Court is an ongoing series of semi-regular spot checks of new and evolving eateries with ties to Capitol Hill.

The Partisan: 709 D St. NW; 202-524-5322; thepartisandc.com

Average entrée: $13 to $20 ($$). Open for dinner Monday through Saturday.

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