Feb. 12, 2016 SIGN IN | REGISTER

Ris Lacoste Redefines Fast Food at Newest Venture | Food Court

Warren Rojas/CQ Roll Call
Ris at Union Market is located at 1309 Fifth St.

A tray of ready-made meatballs (the second-most-popular seller) seemed to take the office cooking treatment equally well. A quick spin through the microwave conjured up steaming orbs of unctuous meat threaded with green onion and smothered in dulcet, chunky-style marinara.

Dessert lovers should be well taken care of at Ris at Union Market, given the shop’s affinity for ornate fruit pies (we spied lattice-topped cherry, apple and blueberry creations), cookies and pudding cups.

Our current favorite is the derby pie. The Southern treat comes courtesy of renowned pastry chef Beverly Bates, who folds together crushed walnuts and mouth-watering chunks of milk chocolate into a sugary, blondie-like center.

“It’s basically a candy bar baked into a pie,” the server suggested/warned as we eyed the intoxicating closer.

She lied. It was better than any candy bar we’ve ever munched on.

Food Court is an ongoing series of semi-regular spot checks of new and evolving eateries with ties to Capitol Hill.

Ris at Union Market:

1309 Fifth St. NE; 202-320-7802; unionmarketdc.com

Average entree: under $12 ($). Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.

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