Oct. 20, 2014 SIGN IN | REGISTER

Noshtalgia: Hunting the Elusive Kolache

Warren Rojas/CQ Roll Call
For those who migrate to the D.C. area and long for a taste of the Tex-Czech treat, Kolache Kreations is one place offering the grab-and-go snack, with varieties such as blueberry, country ham and cheese, and mushroom, egg and cheese.

According to Karpetova, knedliky, a Czech-style dumpling, can accommodate a much wider range of flavors, sweet or savory, a universe she said ranges from savory bacon or tangy sauerkraut-filled productions to pastry pockets bursting at the seams with frothy, warm whipped cream.

She said embassy staff must make kolaches if they ever crave them — a yearning that has at least twice benefited sweets-starved attendees at the annual Kids Euro Festival — because of the scarcity of the stuff.

“There is no such thing in American tradition,” Karpetova said of the dearth of Czech bakeries here in D.C.

For the most part, Austin food blogger and Czech food ways scribe Dawn Orsak tends to agree with Karpetova.

According to her lifelong research, which began when Orsak first gobbled down the prune, apricot or poppy seed kolaches her nana would bake from scratch, “traditional” kolache fillings are restricted to fresh fruit, dried fruit, cream cheese, cottage cheese, poppy seed and nuts. The only outliers she has found would be cabbage — which she said Texans, over time, expanded to include sauerkraut — and sausage.

For now, Fernandez appears to have a monopoly in this area.

But that could change if Hill Country, a New York-based Texas-style barbecue chain with an outpost in Penn Quarter, ever decides to pluck the coveted pastry from its Hill Country Chicken carte.

“It’s possible that kolaches might make an appearance on the HC Barbecue menu at some point,” Hill Country owner Marc Glosserman hinted. “But we try not to duplicate menu items at restaurants.”

Kolache Kreations: 10455 Frederick Road, Ellicott City, Md.; 410-988-3193; kolachekreations.com Got a long-lost repast you want found? Put our food sleuth on the case by nominating your most sorely missed meal(s) to gastrohunt@cqrollcall.com.

An earlier version of this article misstated the geographic origin of the barbecue restaurant Hill Country. The company is based in New York City.

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