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Bearnaise Evolves With the Neighborhood

Tom Williams/CQ Roll Call
Duck leg confit with frites is a popular menu item at Bearnaise restaurant on Pennsylvania Avenue.

Per Lazar, a couple breezed into the bar awhile back and ordered two bottles off the carefully curated reserve list. They then got to work.

“They started off with a steak tartare and escargot before their entrees,” Lazar said of a multicourse feast that ultimately involved four refills of the signature frites. “They were drinking a lovely red — what could go better with that than fries with tarragon and sea salt!” she said.

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