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The wine list sticks with around two dozen smaller producers, split almost evenly between reds and whites.
The 2011 Christophe Thorigny Vouvray Sec was very refreshing, delivering swigs perfumed by lemon and peach. By contrast, the 2010 Monteviejo Festivio Torrontes pummels the senses with stone fruit (apricot, tangerine).
The 2009 Arrocal Tempranillo is aggressively fruity but amazingly food-friendly; a quick sniff looses a flood of ripe red and black fruit including currants and a touch of raisin. That first gulp is slick but determined, bombarding the palate with acid and lip-curling tannins betwixt flashes of plum and blackberries.
Our current favorite is the 2008 Chateaux Vieux Chevrol Lalande-de-Pomerol. The well-structured stunner smells of cinnamon, oak and black fruit and then coats the gullet in vanilla, spice and robust red fruit.