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The menu is built around an army of specialty burgers, with a handful of signature salads and some serviceable sides rounding out the conservative carte. Lunsford is slowly but surely rolling out more daily specials, a program that’s ranged from Cincinnati-style chili fries (too much cinnamon and not nearly enough cheddar for our tastes) to a pairing of Choptank oysters and a specialty pint (fantastic).
The seminal burgers are very much influenced by the Flannerys’ father’s secret steak marinade. “It had a little to do with the family history,” Lunsford said of the soy-based sauce.
The Big Board’s beef is supplied by a farm in neighboring White Hall, Md., and ground to their exact specifications (Lunsford prefers an 85/15 lean meat-to-fat mix) by wholesaler Capital Meats. Standard burgers are 6 ounces, while the Big Apple rules the roost at a half-pound. All burgers are cooked to medium rare unless otherwise specified and can be dressed in an array of house-made sauces and aiolis; the only things Lunsford buys straight-up are ketchup and Dijon mustard.
Several of the signature burgers we tried boasted very appealing individual elements that, unfortunately, didn’t always directly translate into a happy marriage of all of the flavors involved.
The Straight Outta’ Dublin burger wowed us with savory braised cabbage and boozy whiskey-fueled gravy, but we could have done without the sugar-sweetened beef.
Fried “tobacco” onions added a bit of smoke and crunch to a Colby Jack-smothered Memphis Blues burger sabotaged by a cloyingly sweet barbecue sauce.
Yolk-spilling fried eggs, creamy smoked Gouda and tender sauteed mushrooms led the charge in a delicious foray into build-your-own-burger territory. The Ciao Bella bowled us over with mounds of buttery prosciutto, juicy San Marzano tomatoes and dreamy roasted red pepper aioli.
Lunsford’s house-made Rose City PDX mushroom burger is fantastic. The ersatz patty is forged from cremini mushrooms chopped, sauteed and then bound by eggs, basil, oregano and Parmesan cheese. The mouthwatering fungus-fest is then drizzled in soothing labneh for a decidedly Mediterranean feast.
The Atlantis was utterly entrancing, yielding a generous patty of flash-seared ahi tuna embedded with crunchy, nutty sesame seeds and stealthily spiced with a wasabi paste. “It also works great on a salad,” a server said of the well-executed seafood option.
Granville Moore’s pastry chef Kim Moffatt handles dessert duties. She occasionally goes for the throat with items such as whiskey-spiked chocolate cake (overwhelming). We prefer more toned-down productions like the simple but sweet cinnamon crumb cake.
Next up: adding weekday lunch, which could kick off as early as Monday, to the equation.