Sept. 3, 2014 SIGN IN | REGISTER

Hot Plate: Eatery Reinvents Vietnamese Fare

Emily Heil/Roll Call

Khoa Nguyen’s grandmother would not understand everything about his new restaurant, Ba Bay. The industrial, polished concrete floors might perplex her, and so might the Arcade Fire tunes playing in the dining room or the mohawked young host waiting at the door. Still, she likely would find plenty of familiar comfort food on the menu.

Nguyen named his modern Vietnamese establishment (633 Pennsylvania Ave. SE) after his nonagenarian grandmother: “Ba Bay” translates loosely to “Madam Seven,” an affectionate name for his grandmother that refers to her late husband, who was the seventh child in his family.

In this hip, spare dining room, chef Nick Sharpe has paired traditional dishes with modern riffs on Vietnamese flavors. Sharpe’s pedigree, which includes stints at nearby Sonoma and the now-defunct Maestro, and the restaurant’s stylish, contemporary vibe, set Ba Bay apart from many of D.C.’s tchotchke-filled ethnic restaurants. 

Nguyen, 31, who worked for five years as a manager at Vidalia, says diners are sometimes thrown by the ambiance or by the modern twists on Vietnamese classics. “People will say, ‘Wait, that’s not how it’s supposed to be!’ and we say, ‘Well, it’s not traditional, but let us take you on this journey.’” 

That trip might take diners to a plate of shaky beef, rosy slices on a slick of watercress puree, brightened with the vinegary tang of pickled red onions. Or a deep bowl of rich pork broth and noodles that would scare off the worst head cold. Spoonfuls from the bottom of the deep bowl might dredge up a sliver of pork loin or rich pork shank. 

Bahn mi, the famously addictive Vietnamese sandwich, is available only at lunch. A crisp baguette gets a slather of house-made pate (all charcuterie is made in-house) and a rotating variety of fillings, perhaps braised short rib one day or fiery chicken another. 

Nguyen, who was born in Saigon, moved with his family to Hampton Roads, Va., when he was 11. Initially, he planned to open a modest eatery offering bahn mi and other street foods.

But when he began assembling his team — including Sharpe, with whom he had worked at Vidalia, sous chef Sara Siegel (whose previous stints have included the famed Babbo in New York) and manager Ken Tu — the vision evolved into something grander. 

First came finding the right space. His broker called with a lead: The space that had housed the short-lived Locanda restaurant on Capitol Hill was available. 

After a few months giving the restaurant a face-lift — removing ugly sound-muffling panels and hanging pendant lights with Edison-style bulbs and shades made of traditional Vietnamese baskets — Nguyen opened the doors in mid-November.

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